Cutting It Close: Tips for Cutting Keys to Avoid Wasting Blanks

You're standing at your bench or in the van, staring at a fresh blank key and an impatient customer. A single slip, wrong depth, or bad blank match can ruin your profit, or worse, cause a callback. Let me walk you through how to decode the code, cut precise keys, dodge the wear pattern trap, and get every blank to pay for itself.

Understanding the Code

You can’t cut what you don’t know. The code on an original key—the bitting—is the blueprint. It tells you the depth of each cut along the blade, and extracting it is the first step. Whether you have the code from the manufacturer or decode it yourself, you need absolute clarity.

When you're working blind—no code, just a worn key—you're in dangerous territory. If that worn key has rounded, flattened cuts, lifting them mechanically will duplicate the wear—not the original precision. Since worn cuts don't represent the true depths, you’ll have a key that fits loosely and fails under use. Decode the code with a gauge or machine first, and then cut to spec. Anything else is just guessing.

Choosing the Right Blank

All blanks are not created equal. They come with distinct profiles that must match the original keyway. Lay the blank over the original, line them up, and make sure the profile lines up perfectly down the blade. If your blank doesn’t seat in properly, the cut will be offset. Misalignment means one bad cut after another—maybe the ignition turns, but the door sticks. Stock your blanks wisely, and always double-check the profile before cutting.

Calibrate Your Machine Like a Pro

Next step: machine setup. Mount the blank cleanly in the vice. The cutter blade needs to be sharp and appropriate for the key type. Finer cuts need thin blades; deeper cuts need broader ones. Tinker with calibration daily, especially if you're doing a dozen cuts a day. A dull or misaligned blade will shave metal unevenly and leave burrs or rough edges that damage locks, cause jams, or break.

Cut Smart, Not Fast

Speed without care is how blanks go in the trash. Trim cuts slowly and smooth, let the machine guide the blade. Don’t push aggressively—overcutting ruins the bitting. After the initial cut, check each depth with a gauge. Even one spot too high or too low throws off the whole key. A quick polish removes burrs, but don’t file off metal that should stay. If you need to polish, take the extra seconds on a wire brush, not a grinder.

Avoiding Duplicate Wear Patterns

Here's a common rookie mistake: copying a key with worn grooves. The broken-in cuts grow deeper as the key rides through the lock over time. When you duplicate that wear, you're creating a key that fits an already worn lock, not the factory lock. Instead, decode the bitting, reference the code chart, and then cut new, precise depths. That way, you give the lock a fresh key in nominal condition, not one that drags through wear grooves. The customer may notice it being stiff at first—but locks smooth out. And you'll know your cut was right.

Maximizing Profit per Blank

Blank keys cost real money. A wasted blank is lost margin. Start by ordering bulk and specific blanks for your busiest customers—house keys, common vehicles, office buildings. Use inventory tools to track which profiles you reach for most, and restock those first. If you do a lot of code cutting, consider decoding machines or software so you're always blasting off the proper bitting rather than eyeballing. A simple calculator of blanks used per job and time spent cutting reveals how investing in better tools actually means more cash in your pocket.

What Happens When Things Go Wrong

Mistakes happen—a blank sticks, a cut is too shallow, or burrs form. For minor errors, back out the blade, deburr with a wire brush, and carefully recut. But if the blank is severely mis-cut or over-ground, start fresh. Wasting one blank costs less than a callback or a broken lock. Always diagnose the root cause (dull blade, misalignment, wrong calibration) to prevent repeating the error. Keep your machines clean, your blanks organized, and your calibration tools within reach. That way, you're cutting a key once, and cutting it right.

Cutting keys isn't just repetitive labor—it’s precision craft. Decode the code, pick the right blank, set up your machine properly, monitor gauge depth, smooth out burrs, and track profit. Do this every day, and you'll turn blanks into quick, reliable revenue. Mess this up, and you're burning inventory, time, and trust.

This is craftsmanship. This is your reputation. And this is how you build a locksmith business that actually works.

You can check out our full collection of Key Cutting Machines Here.